Finger Lakes Road Trip Itinerary: 3 Days of Waterfalls, Wine & Everything In Between
A real itinerary from someone who hiked in the rain, skipped the tent when it mattered, and has zero regrets.
I've been wanting to get to the Finger Lakes to checkout Watkins Glen State Park for years, and this past August we finally made the road trip happen. We drove from Portland, Maine and cut through southern New Hampshire and Vermont to reach New York. We pieced together a route that was equal parts spontaneous and so much fun. Rain and all, this trip delivered. Here's exactly what we did, what I'd do again, and what you actually need to know if you're planning a Finger Lakes road trip of your own.
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The Drive: Vermont Detours Worth Making
We didn't just drive straight through. Taking the scenic route through Vermont meant a stop in Chesterfield, NH. This quirky, magical spot with the ruins of an old castle staircase rising out of the woods named Madame Sherri Forest after Madame Sherri herself. It's free, it's bizarre, and was worth the small detour after driving for hours. To not ruin the surprise, I’m keeping photos of it to myself so you can have the same magical moment we did.
From there we swung into Brattleboro and grabbed lunch at the infamous Vermont Country Deli to try the viral Instagram mac and cheese. It’s not only exactly the kind of local sandwich shop a road trip needs, but the man and cheese actually held up to the hype and may be the best mac and cheese I’ve ever eaten. We also got their pulled pork and coleslaw to make sandwiches later that night.
Next stop, the Hogback Mountain Scenic Overlook in Marlboro, one of those pull-off views that makes you feel like you picked the right life. We wrapped up the Vermont leg at Woodford State Park, where we car camped for the night on the platform bed I'd built in my Subaru Forester for a previous trip. Car camping with that setup is genuinely comfortable, and if you haven't done it, it's worth looking into.
(Left) Hogback Mountain Scenic Overlook, (Middle) Seeing the Battle of Bennington obelisk in the distance meant we had to drive to it, (Right) Hunt for Robert Frost’s grave
Random morning stop: Robert Frost's grave
Before getting back on the road toward the Finger Lakes, we made two stops because “when in Rome”. The first was the Battle of Bennington obelisk in Old Bennington, Vermont, which is a 306-foot monument that we spotted in the distance and drove to. The second was Robert Frost's grave, just down the road in the Old Bennington Cemetery. It's simple and quiet and worth five minutes of your morning.
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Day One in the Finger Lakes: Hiking in the Rain Like It's a Personality
We arrived in Ithaca to rain. Predicted all day. While we had plans to camp and be outdoors, this wasn’t our first rodeo in the rain, so we didn’t care.
Stop 1: Buttermilk Falls State Park
Our first stop was Buttermilk Falls State Park, and we started smart by parking at the top lot and hiking down the Gorge Trail first, then looping back up via the Rim Trail. The gorge trail follows the falls all the way down to a swimming hole at the bottom (closed when we were there). The rim trail back up is all canopy, steeply forested, and while it doesn’t have a good view at all, we took it to be sheltered from rain and get in a more intensive physical hike.
Pro tip
If you are in shape or want a more physical challenge, start at the top lot. Hiking down the Gorge Trail and back up the Rim Trail is the move if swimming isn’t open or of interest to you. You get the falls on the way down, the trees on the way back up, and you skip re-climbing the insane number of stairs. If you are hoping to swim, start at the bottom and go up the Rim Trail (which will seem kinda lame) and then be wowed going down the Gorge Trail and reward youself with a dip at the end.
Note About Fees
If you are camping in one of the state parks, parking at all of the parks in the area are included in your stay, and that also includes the full day of checkout. If you aren’t staying in a state park, you can purchase a one day parking pass at any of the parks for $10 and it allows you to park at any of the state parks all day!
Stop 2: The Nature Center Treehouse
We swung by the Ithaca Children's Garden and Nature Center on Buttermilk Falls Road. Sadly, the center has been closed for quite awhile due to funding issues at the time of me writing this, and honestly is a little eerie, but the grounds are still open to use the trails and visit the treehouse. Built by local high school students, it is so whimsical and unique. Kids will love it but its big enough for adults to climb around in too! It’s completely free and worth a quick stop if you're in the area.
Stop 3: Taughannock Falls State Park
This was the moment of the day. By the time we got to Taughannock Falls State Park, the rain had picked up and because of that, and because it was a Monday morning, we were the only people there! Just us and one of the most dramatic waterfalls in the Northeast. Taughannock drops 215 feet, which is taller than Niagara Falls! The trail to the base is completely flat, about three-quarters of a mile out, and the payoff is enormous. This is a must-do. Full stop!
Photo: We were the only people there. Just us and a 215-foot waterfall and the sound of rain. Some places earn their reputation and then some.
Night One: Glamping Near Seneca Lake
A giant thunderstorm was rolling in. We made the executive decision to not camp and instead treated ourselves to a glamping stay at Seneca Gorge Glamping in Hector, about 40 minutes from Ithaca. The property is brand new and had just opened a few weeks prior. Situated right on the eastern edge of Seneca Lake, it's nestled in trees with A-frames and safari-style tents. They have a communal area, private fire pits, luxury bathhouses, A/C and mini fridges. You're right between Keuka and Cayuga Lakes, in the heart of Finger Lakes Wine Country, which means you're minutes from some of the best wineries in the region. The thunderstorm that hit that night was insane and we had zero regrets not being in a tent.
Dinner: FLX Table in Geneva
This was our anniversary trip so we knew we wanted to do something unique for dinner. And that we did! We'd had FLX Table on the list before we even booked the trip. Created by Chef and Master Sommelier Christopher Bates, FLX Table is unlike any restaurant I've ever been to. There's one long communal table seating 14 to 16 people, and no barrier between you and the open kitchen. It's intimate, interactive, and exactly what it promises to be: a dinner party with strangers who quickly become people you want to stay talking to until they close the place down.
The menu is a seasonal prix fixe that evolves constantly based on what's local and what's good, and it is genuinely full of surprises with everything from the pairings to the plating to the course you least expect. I went with the wine pairing and my partner did the beer pairing, which meant we got to taste two completely different journeys through the same meal. I got to geek out over Finger Lakes Rieslings. He got to discover that craft beer can absolutely hold its own against a tasting menu. Both were outstanding. And somehow I still don't fully understand how they managed to make eating corn on the cob feel like a full experience worth talking about. That's the magic of FLX Table. It takes things that may be familiar and makes it unforgettable and makes unique ingredients seem familiar.
It's a 2026 James Beard Award nominee, which says a lot about what Bates has built here. And yes, we absolutely made new friends that night, two of which we even hope to connect with in the future!
Photo: A sneak peek at the dinner table while we enjoy a welcome bev.
Pro Tip
Make a reservation! We got lucky because of the time we were there, but if you are there in the summer, make sure you book far in advance. They now take reservations through Resy. Two seatings nightly: 5:45pm and 8:15pm. Bookings release two months in advance and go fast so plan ahead if you can so you aren’t disappointed. Also, good to note, they close reservations that morning so definitely don’t wait until the day of.
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Day Two: Watkins Glen State Park and the Reason We Came
Stop 1: Breakfast in Watkins Glen
Start your day here. Curly's Diner in Watkins Glen is the kind of no-frills local breakfast spot every road trip needs. Get the corned beef hash. It looks ‘eh’ but it tastes incredible! We get corned beef hash nearly everywhere we have breakfast and this is in our top 5 best. Oh, and do NOT leave without buying a slice of the cinnamon bread! I'm serious. You can thank me later.
Stop 2: Shequaga Falls in Montour Falls
Just a couple of minutes down the road from Watkins Glen, Shequaga Falls drops right in the middle of the small village of Montour Falls. It's unexpected, it's free, and it's the kind of thing that makes you feel like you stumbled onto something, even though it's right there on the map. If you arrive in Watkins Glen directly from Ithaca you may even drive right up on it without realizing it, making it quite the surprise. It’s another quick stop that leaves a big impression.
Photo: When do you get to see this big of a waterfall in the middle of town? Only in Montour Falls.
Stop 3: Watkins Glen State Park
And here it is. The reason we made the whole trip. It is constantly shared on social media as this crazy, magical, uniquely special place that everyone must see. I wanted to see if it lived up to the hype. Verdict?
Watkins Glen State Park is genuinely everything people say it is and more! Within 1.5 miles, the Gorge Trail follows Glen Creek past 19 waterfalls, through narrow canyon walls that rise up to 400 feet on either side of you, through tunnels carved into the rock, and over bridges that look like something out of a fantasy film. Do note, there are over 800 hand-laid stone steps, so while you will be too distracted by the landscape and is 2000% worth it, be ready to take them.
Fun Fact: The geology here is wild as we learned how glaciers rerouted the entire flow of the creek, which now runs north into Seneca Lake. A single drop of water spends 18 years in Seneca Lake before making its way to the Atlantic Ocean!
The entire hike is magical but Rainbow Falls is definitely the showstopper at the midpoint. We also got super lucky, as not only did it rain the day before creating Fern Gully vibes, but we were there on a Tuesday right at the start of shoulder season. We've heard peak summer weekends are a genuine crowd nightmare with parking issues and wall-to-wall crowds of people on the trail. While that wasn’t our experience, I’m going to tell you DO NOT ruin this experience by going on a peak season weekend. Go early morning, go off-season, go on a Monday or Tuesday if you can. It is worth protecting this experience. Timing is everything on this one.
At the time of this article, the Gorge Trail is open mid-May through late October. Off-season weekday mornings are the sweet spot. Also, since a state park, your camping pass/parking pass is valid here too.
Stop 3: Seneca Lake Pier
Post-gorge, we made a quick stop at the Seneca Lake Pier in the village for a photo and get a view of the lake. It takes five minutes and gives you a larger perspective on the size of the lake and all that you learned on the hike.
Stop 4: Hillick & Hobbs Estate Winery
We couldn't be in the Finger Lakes and skip a vineyard, so we made our way to Hillick & Hobbs Estate on the southeastern banks of Seneca Lake. This place can’t be beat. World-renowned winemaker Paul Hobbs, who made his name with Napa Cabs and several international projects, came back to his New York roots to build this estate and named it after his parents, Joan Hillick and Edward Hobbs. He's been farming the land since 2013 and the property is a stunning, sustainably designed space with panoramic views of Seneca Lake that made it very hard to leave. They're focused on dry Riesling, and the tastings reflect that. We got to sit at the outdoor patio overlooking the lake and the two women working were informative and answered all of our questions. We got the 2024 sampler and the views were as good as the wine.
I should note that locals we had met at dinner had also recommended LaMoreaux Landing on the opposite shore of Seneca Lake but because it's on the other side of the lake from where we were, we didn’t have the time to make the drive.
Stop 5: Back to Ithaca
We closed out the day back in Ithaca, walking around the pedestrian main street downtown known as The Commons where we poke into some cute local shops. My favorite was Home Green Home with all it’s adorable gifts and plants. Then, we grabbed a snack to go at Steamy Dumpling, which is exactly what it sounds like and exactly what you want at the end of a long day.
That night we tented at Robert H. Treman State Park campground. The swimming hole was closed, but the camping itself was great. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to hike the gorge here.
Heads Up
Get your firewood before the ranger leaves for the day. It's $10 a bundle onsite, and once the ranger goes, the firewood lockup closes and that's that. Don't learn this the hard way as we had to get firewood in town.
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Last Morning: Cornell University
It was raining again on our way out (of course) so we made a brief stop at Cornell University, and while we weren’t able to walk around the botanical gardens on campus as planned, we ducked into the A.D. White Library inside Uris Hall. This place is jaw-dropping! It’s a grand reading room with towering shelves of rare books and makes you feel like you've walked into a different century. It's a silent space, so respect that, but do take a minute to actually look at the books on the shelves. Some of them are genuinely wild!
Then: the Cornell Dairy Bar because, well, ice cream for breakfast! The ice cream is made with milk from Cornell's own cows, which is a sentence that should not be as charming as it is but absolutely is. Got a sandwich, got a scoop, and hit the road happy.
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The Full Itinerary at a Glance
1 Madame Sherri Forest + Vermont Country Deli + Hogback Mountain Overlook → Woodford State Park (car camp)
2 Battle of Bennington obelisk + Robert Frost's grave → drive to Ithaca
3 Buttermilk Falls State Park (gorge + rim trail)
4 Nature Center & student-built treehouse
5 Taughannock Falls
6 Glamping at Single Island Shores, Hector (Seneca Lake)
7 Dinner at FLX Table, Geneva
8 Breakfast at Curly's + Shequaga Falls, Montour Falls
9 Watkins Glen State Park gorge trail
10 Seneca Lake Pier photo stop
11 Hillick & Hobbs Estate wine tasting
12 The Commons + Steamy Dumpling, Ithaca → Robert H. Treman campground
13 Cornell A.D. White Library + Dairy Bar → home
Things I Would Have Done with More Time
Visited The Women’s Rights National Historic Park & the It’s A Wonderful Life Museum and bridge in Seneca Falls
Spent an entire afternoon at Cornell
Gone to the Corning Museum of Glass
Explore Letchworth State Park
Final Thoughts: Go to the Finger Lakes
This trip punched way above its weight. The Finger Lakes are genuinely underrated and not in a "hidden gem" way, because Watkins Glen is famous for good reason, but in the sense that the full picture of what's there doesn't get communicated enough. The gorges, the waterfalls, the wine country, the food, the camping, the small-town texture of Ithaca, Watkins Glen and surrounding towns, it all adds up to something that feels something special. We covered a lot of ground in three days and still left things undone, which is exactly how a good trip should end.
Have questions about the route, what to pack, or what to prioritize? Reach out!
